pediaINCI list (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) is an international nomenclature system that defines cosmetic product ingredients in a standardized language. EU Cosmetics Regulation (EC/1223/2009) and Turkish Cosmetics Regulations require all cosmetic products to display ingredient lists in INCI format on the label. This article explores what the INCI system is, how to read it, what common ingredient names mean, and why INCI literacy is important for the informed consumer.
This article is prepared for general informational purposes only. It contains no product promotion or therapeutic claims.
What is the INCI system and why was it created?
The INCI system was developed in the 1970s in the United States by the CTFA (Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association — now the Personal Care Products Council). Its purpose is to ensure that cosmetic ingredients are named in a standard, uniform way worldwide. Thanks to this standard, an INCI list on a product sold in Turkey uses exactly the same format as the same product sold in Germany, Japan, or Brazil.
INCI nomenclature rules
The INCI system is based on specific rules: plant-based ingredients are written with Latin botanical names (Olea Europaea Fruit Oil — olive oil, Cocos Nucifera Oil — coconut oil). Chemical ingredients are written with English names (Sodium Hydroxide, Glycerin, Citric Acid). Colorants are shown with CI (Colour Index) numbers (CI 77891 — titanium dioxide). Fragrance or scent blends can be collectively listed as "Parfum" or "Fragrance."
How to read an INCI list?
Concentration ranking rule
In an INCI list, ingredients are listed in concentration order — from highest to lowest. This rule is strict for ingredients above 1%. Ingredients below 1% can be listed in any order. In practice, this means: ingredients at the top of the list make up a large portion of the product; ingredients at the end are in very low concentration.
Example: Reading a soap INCI list
A cold-process soap INCI list might look like this:
Aqua, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Sodium Hydroxide, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Carbon, Bentonite
Reading this list: water (for the lye solution), coconut oil, olive oil, sodium hydroxide (for saponification — does not remain in the finished product), castor oil, shea butter, tea tree essential oil, lavender essential oil, activated charcoal, and bentonite clay. The list clearly shows the soap's main oils, fragrance sources, and additive ingredients.
Allergen disclosure
EU Cosmetics Regulation requires that 26 potential allergen ingredients be additionally noted on the INCI list — these are typically natural components of essential oils: Linalool, Limonene, Citral, Geraniol, Eugenol, Citronellol, Coumarin, etc. Seeing these names in an INCI list does not mean synthetic chemicals were added to the product — it is transparent disclosure of natural components of the essential oils used.
Common INCI names and their meanings
Common INCI names found in cosmetic products and their translations:
- Aqua: Water
- Olea Europaea Fruit Oil: Olive oil
- Cocos Nucifera Oil: Coconut oil
- Sodium Hydroxide: Sodium hydroxide (NaOH — for saponification)
- Glycerin: Glycerin (natural byproduct of saponification)
- Butyrospermum Parkii Butter: Shea butter
- Ricinus Communis Seed Oil: Castor oil
- Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil: Sunflower oil
- Corylus Avellana Seed Oil: Hazelnut oil
- Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter: Cocoa butter
- Mel / Honey: Honey
- Goat Milk: Goat milk
- Parfum: Fragrance component (can be natural or synthetic)
INCI and Turkish regulations
Turkey's Cosmetics Regulations were prepared in alignment with EU regulations (EC/1223/2009). All cosmetic products sold in Turkey must display INCI lists in Turkish on the label. The Ministry of Health's Cosmetic Product Notification System (ÜBİS) monitors ingredient information for products marketed. Cosmetic products must undergo safety assessment (CPSR — Cosmetic Product Safety Report).
Free INCI research tools
Consumers can use these free databases to understand what an INCI ingredient is: CosIng (official EU Commission database — ec.europa.eu/cosing), EWG Skin Deep (ewg.org/skindeep), and CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review — cir-safety.org).
Why is INCI literacy important?
INCI literacy is a fundamental skill for informed cosmetic consumption. Marketing messages (front label) are typically designed to be emotional and eye-catching — phrases like "natural," "organic," "pure," "chemical-free" are frequently used. However, the only reliable way to understand a product's true composition is to read the INCI list. A consumer with INCI literacy can look beyond marketing messages and evaluate what a product actually contains.
5 key points to watch when evaluating an INCI list
When evaluating a cosmetic product's INCI list, pay attention to these 5 points: the first 5 ingredients make up the product's main structure — these should be prioritized. The term "Parfum" alone does not distinguish between natural or synthetic — manufacturer disclosure is important. Allergen notifications (Linalool, Limonene, etc.) are components of natural essential oils — not synthetic additions. "Aqua" being first does not mean the product is "diluted" — it is a formulation necessity. CI-numbered ingredients are colorants — they can be natural or synthetic.
INCI and digital tools
Mobile applications (INCI Beauty, Think Dirty, Yuka, etc.) make scanning INCI lists and quickly evaluating ingredients easier. These apps display ingredient safety profiles with scoring systems. However, be cautious — different apps have different scoring criteria, and some evaluations may conflict with scientific consensus. The most reliable sources are official databases: CosIng (EU), CIR, and FDA.
Frequently asked questions
What is an INCI list?
INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) is an international system that ensures cosmetic ingredients are named in a standard way worldwide. EU and Turkish regulations require INCI lists to be displayed on product labels.
Why are ingredients ranked in the INCI list?
Ingredients are listed in concentration order (highest to lowest). This rule is strict for ingredients above 1%. Ingredients at the top of the list make up the main structure of the product.
Are names like Linalool and Limonene synthetic chemicals?
No — these are typically natural components of essential oils. EU regulations require that 26 potentially allergenic ingredients be additionally noted on the INCI list. Seeing these names does not mean synthetic chemicals were added to the product.
Where can I check the INCI list?
CosIng (official EU Commission database), EWG Skin Deep, and CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) are free and reliable INCI research tools.
Bibliography
1. EU Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 — Article 19 (Labelling).
2. CosIng Database — European Commission. ec.europa.eu/cosing
3. Personal Care Products Council — INCI Nomenclature. personalcarecouncil.org
4. Turkish Cosmetics Regulations — labeling requirements.