pediaCoconut oil is a tropical vegetable oil rich in lauric acid (45–53%), derived from the kernel (copra) of the ripe fruit of the Cocos nucifera L. palm (Arecaceae family). As the primary source of lather in soapmaking, coconut oil is an indispensable component of recipe design due to its abundant, large, and airy lather. The coconut oil featured in the 22 Chailea product, along with olive oil and palm oil, constitutes one of the “three basic oils” of soapmaking.
This article is not a product promotion. The information contained herein does not make any therapeutic claims.
Botanical Source
Cocos nucifera L. is a palm tree that grows in tropical coastal regions and can reach heights of up to 30 meters. It is believed to be native to Southeast Asia. The Philippines, Indonesia, India, and Sri Lanka are the primary producing countries. The coconut is known as the “tree of life”—oil, milk, water, and fiber (coir) are obtained from its fruit, charcoal from its shell, and construction materials from its wood.
Chemical Profile
Lauric acid: 45–53%
Lauric acid (C12:0) is the most important component of coconut oil. Among medium-chain fatty acids (MCFAs), lauric acid possesses the strongest antimicrobial potential. It is converted to monolaurin in the body—monolaurin has demonstrated in vitro activity against enveloped viruses, gram-positive bacteria, and fungi. Other important fatty acids include: myristic acid (16–21%), palmitic acid (8–11%), caprylic acid (5–10%), capric acid (5–8%), oleic acid (5–8%), and stearic acid (2–4%).
Saturated Fat Profile
Coconut oil contains 82–92% saturated fatty acids—one of the highest percentages among all vegetable oils. This high saturated fat content gives the oil a solid consistency at room temperature (below 25°C) and exceptional oxidative stability (shelf life of 2–5 years).
Its place in the scientific literature
Skin barrier research
In a randomized, double-blind study published by Agero and Verallo-Rowell (2004) in the journal *Dermatitis*, it was reported that virgin coconut oil supports skin hydration levels in dry skin and reduces *S. aureus* colonization. In a study published by Rele and Mohile (2003) in the *Journal of Cosmetic Science*, it was shown that coconut oil protects hair proteins more effectively than other oils.
Antimicrobial: lauric acid and monolaurin
A study published by Nakatsuji et al. (2009) in the *Journal of Investigative Dermatology* reported that lauric acid exhibits in vitro antimicrobial activity against *Propionibacterium acnes* (acne bacteria). These findings are based on laboratory conditions and do not constitute a product efficacy claim.
Safety Profile
The CIR panel has assessedCocos Nuciferad Oil as safe for cosmetic use. Comedogenic potential: Rated on a 4/5 scale—it has a high potential to clog pores. Therefore, pure coconut oil should be used with caution on acne-prone skin. In its saponified form (sodium cocoate), the comedogenic potential is eliminated.
Coconut oil in soap making
The King of Foam
Coconut oil is the primary source of lather in soapmaking. Lauric acid reacts with NaOH to form sodium laurate—sodium laurate is the most abundant and highest-lathering of all soap salts. SAP value (NaOH) is approximately 0.178—it is one of the most common vegetable oils with the highest SAP value (requires more NaOH).
Usage Rate and Precautions
It is used at a rate of 15–30%. At rates above 30%, the soap may be overly cleansing and drying—the high lauric acid content strips away too much of the skin’s natural oils. A rate of 15–20% is recommended for sensitive skin formulations. In “gentle skin” formulations, it can be substituted with babassu oil.
Properties it adds to soap
Abundant, large, and airy white lather; hardness and durability; strong cleansing power; and a white color. Disadvantage: drying effect when used in high concentrations.
Types of coconut oil
Virgin coconut oil (VCO)
Obtained from fresh coconut milk using cold-press methods. It has a mild coconut scent and flavor. Its lauric acid content is similar to that of refined oil. It can be used in soapmaking but is expensive.
Refined coconut oil (RBD)
It is an oil obtained from dried copra that has been refined, bleached, and deodorized. It is odorless. It is the most commonly used form in soapmaking. It is economical.
Fractionated coconut oil (MCT oil)
A liquid oil obtained by separating lauric acid and long-chain fatty acids, containing only medium-chain fatty acids (C8, C10). It is not used in soapmaking—its SAP value is different, and it does not produce lather.
76° vs. 92°: Melting Point Difference
Commercial coconut oil is sold in two melting point categories: 76°F (24°C — standard) and 92°F (33°C — hydrogenated). The 92° oil should not be used in soapmaking — it contains trans fatty acids. Only 76° (natural, non-hydrogenated) coconut oil should be used in soapmaking.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why does coconut oil soap lather so well?
The soap salt of lauric acid (sodium laurate) produces the most lather of any soap salt. That’s why coconut oil is known as the “king of lather.”
Does coconut oil soap dry out the skin?
Yes, when used in high concentrations (30%+)—its strong cleansing power can strip away too much of the skin’s natural oils. In balanced formulations at 15–25%, this effect is minimized.
The Debate Over Coconut Oil Percentage in Soap Making
The percentage of coconut oil is a frequently debated topic in the soapmaking community. While some soapmakers prefer “high-coconut” (40–50%) recipes for their lathering performance, others argue that this percentage over-dries the skin. General consensus: 20–25% is a balanced ratio that provides abundant lather and acceptable moisturization. Formulas with a 15% ratio are suitable for sensitive skin, while those with a 30% ratio are designed for powerful cleansing. “100% coconut soap” (salt bar—sea salt soap) is the only type of soap that lathers in seawater and is used by sailors.
Coconut Oil and the Tropical Economy
Coconut oil production plays a significant role in the economies of tropical countries such as the Philippines, Indonesia, India, and Sri Lanka. Approximately 12 million farming families earn their livelihoods from coconut production. Fair Trade and organic-certified coconut oil is increasingly becoming a viable option for sustainable supply chains.
“Miracle Oil” Marketing and Scientific Reality
In recent years, coconut oil has been marketed on social media as a “miracle oil”—with a wide range of claims made, from hair care to teeth whitening, weight loss to Alzheimer’s prevention. The vast majority of these claims are not supported by scientific evidence. In the context of soapmaking, the value of coconut oil is clear and concrete: as a source of lauric acid, it contributes to lather formation and cleaning power. Its scientifically supported uses are limited, and exaggerated claims should be avoided.
Chailea products containing this ingredient
Cocos Nucifera Oil is the primary source of lather in 22 products from Chailea. View all products →
References
1. Agero, A. L., & Verallo-Rowell, V. M. (2004). A randomized double-blind controlled trial comparing extra virgin coconut oil with mineral oil as a moisturizer for mild to moderate xerosis. Dermatitis, 15(3), 109-116. doi:10.2310/6620.2004.04006
2. Nakatsuji, T., et al. (2009). Antimicrobial properties of lauric acid against Propionibacterium acnes. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 129(10), 2480-2488.
3. Expert Panel of the CIR. Safety Assessment of Ingredients Derived frCocos Nucifera.