pediaJojoba oil is a natural liquid wax ester derived from the seeds of the Simmondsia chinensis plant, native to the desert regions of North America. By chemical composition, jojoba oil is extremely similar to human sebum (skin oil), containing 97% wax esters — a composition that fundamentally distinguishes it from all other botanical oils. The CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) Expert Panel has evaluated jojoba oil as safe for cosmetic use. This article examines the botanical source of jojoba oil, its unique chemical profile, its place in scientific literature, and its role in soap-making based on academic sources.
This article is not a product promotion. Its purpose is to provide an independent framework based on the scientific literature position of jojoba oil.
Botanical source and traditional use
Simmondsia chinensis (Link) C.K. Schneid. is an evergreen shrub native to the Sonoran Desert of Arizona, Southern California, and northwestern Mexico. It is extremely drought-resistant and can live over 100 years in desert conditions. Today it is cultivated commercially in the USA, India, Chile, Peru, Argentina, Australia, Egypt, and Israel; Israel is among the world's leading producers (Perry et al., 2021).
The indigenous peoples of Baja California (particularly the O'odham people) traditionally ground jojoba seeds to obtain oil, which they used in traditional care for cuts, sores, cavities, burns, sunburns, and wind-burn relief. It was also used as a natural lubricant in hair care (Dary, 2008).
Chemical profile: why not an "oil"?
Jojoba oil is technically not an oil, but a liquid wax. This distinction derives from jojoba oil's unique chemical composition and carries great importance from a cosmetic perspective.
Wax ester structure
While most botanical oils consist of triglycerides, jojoba oil is composed of 97% monounsaturated wax esters containing long-chain fatty acids and fatty alcohols (C36-C46 carbon chain length). This composition makes jojoba oil resemble not any known botanical oil, but rather the spermaceti whale oil formerly used in cosmetics. The main fatty acids in its composition are eicosenoic acid, erucic acid, and oleic acid.
Sebum similarity: why does it matter?
Human sebum (skin oil) contains 2-30% wax esters. The wax ester structure of jojoba oil makes it the botanical source structurally closest to the skin's natural lipid barrier. This similarity is the primary reason why jojoba oil is frequently cited in dermatocosmetic literature — it has the potential to interact with the skin through a molecularly recognized structure.
Oxidative stability
Jojoba oil demonstrates extraordinary resistance to oxidation due to its high eicosenoic acid content and wax ester structure. This property is valuable both for long shelf life in cosmetic formulations and for stability in soap-making. Its resistance to high temperatures also derives from this structure.
Place in scientific literature
Ex vivo human skin study (2024)
In a study published in Frontiers in Pharmacology by Cohen et al. (2024), topical application of jojoba wax was tested in an ex vivo human skin organ culture model. Two industrial and two laboratory-scale cold-pressed jojoba waxes were analyzed; fatty acid, fatty alcohol, tocopherol, and phytosterol profiles were determined. Results showed that jojoba wax increased pro-collagen III and hyaluronic acid synthesis and reduced pro-inflammatory cytokine levels in lipopolysaccharide-induced inflammation (Cohen et al., 2024).
CIR safety assessment
The CIR Expert Panel conducted a comprehensive safety assessment of jojoba oil and derivatives (Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Wax, Jojoba Esters, Hydrogenated Jojoba Oil, Jojoba Alcohol, etc.). According to assessment results:
- It was evaluated that it does not penetrate the skin due to its large molecular weight components.
- Acute and subchronic oral toxicity was found to be low (LD50 generally above 5.0 g/kg).
- It was determined that undiluted it is not a skin irritant.
- No reactions were observed in sensitization tests.
- Jojoba alcohol and jojoba esters were found non-mutagenic in the Ames test.
- It was evaluated as non-phototoxic.
- Use up to 100% in hand and body creams was found to be safe.
Non-comedogenic property
In the CIR assessment, Jojoba Esters were classified as non-comedogenic (non-pore-clogging). This is an important finding for the safe use of jojoba oil on oily and combination skin types. The potential of jojoba oil to balance sebum production — due to its structural similarity to the skin's own oil production — is also being studied further.
EU regulation
According to the European Union Cosmetic Regulation (EC/1223/2009), the use of jojoba oil and derivatives in cosmetic products is permitted under general provisions, and no restrictions are listed.
Safety profile
The CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) Expert Panel has evaluated jojoba oil and derivatives as safe in cosmetic products. It was determined that undiluted it is not a skin irritant, and no reactions were observed in sensitization tests. It has been found non-phototoxic and non-mutagenic. Jojoba Esters were classified as non-comedogenic (non-pore-clogging). In the EU Cosmetic Regulation (EC/1223/2009), jojoba oil and derivatives are permitted under general provisions with no restrictions listed. Rare tree nut allergy cross-reactivity has been reported — individuals with tree nut allergies are advised to use caution.
Jojoba oil in soap-making
Saponification characteristic
The saponification value of jojoba oil (SAP — NaOH) is approximately 0.069 — this is quite low compared to commonly used olive oil (0.134), coconut oil (0.178), or palm oil (0.141). This low SAP value makes jojoba oil suitable for use in recipes as a complementary or superfatting oil rather than as a primary oil.
Usage rate and method
In soap recipes, jojoba oil is typically used at 5-10% of total oil content. When used as a superfatting oil (added after trace), it does not participate in the saponification reaction and largely retains its structure. When used in the main recipe, it must be included in lye calculations.
Properties it adds to soap
Jojoba oil imparts a "slippery," "silky" feel and moisturizing texture to soap. Its contribution to lather structure is limited, but due to the soft feel it leaves on the skin, it is especially preferred in facial soaps. Its oxidative stability supports the soap's shelf life (reducing DOS — dreaded orange spots risk).
Frequently asked questions
What is jojoba oil?
Jojoba oil is a liquid wax derived from the seeds of the Simmondsia chinensis plant. It contains 97% wax esters and is chemically the closest to human sebum among all botanical oils.
Does jojoba oil clog pores?
In the CIR assessment, Jojoba Esters were classified as non-comedogenic (non-pore-clogging). Due to its large molecular weight, it was evaluated that it does not penetrate the skin.
What does jojoba oil do in soap?
In soap-making, it is used as a superfatting oil or in low percentages (5-10%) in the main recipe. It adds a slippery, silky feel and moisturizing texture to soap. Its oxidative stability supports the soap's shelf life.
Why is jojoba oil different from other oils?
While most botanical oils are composed of triglycerides, jojoba oil contains 97% wax esters. This composition makes it technically not an oil but a liquid wax, making it the botanical source chemically closest to human sebum.
Where have studies on jojoba oil been published?
Major studies have been published in peer-reviewed journals such as Frontiers in Pharmacology, Cosmetic Ingredient Review reports, Skin Research and Technology, and Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology.
Chailea products containing this ingredient
- Natural Activated Charcoal Soap 100 g
Bibliography
1. Cohen, G., et al. (2024). Topical application of jojoba wax enhances the synthesis of pro-collagen III and hyaluronic acid. Frontiers in Pharmacology, 15:1333085. doi:10.3389/fphar.2024.1333085
2. CIR Expert Panel. Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil and related ingredients. Cosmetic Ingredient Review. CIR Report
3. Dary, D. (2008). Indian Medicine. In Frontier Medicine. Alfred A. Knopf, New York, 3-27.
4. Perry, A., Tel-Zur, N., & Dag, A. (2021). Vegetative and reproductive response to fruit load in two jojoba cultivars. Agronomy, 11(5), 889.
5. Patzelt, A., et al. (2012). In vivo investigations on the penetration of various oils and their influence on the skin barrier. Skin Research and Technology, 18(3), 364-369.