pediaSesame oil, obtained from the seeds of the Sesamum indicum L. plant, is one of the oldest plant oils in human history. Sesame oil, used in Mesopotamia for over 4000 years, holds an important place in Ayurveda and traditional Chinese medicine for topical application. With a balanced fatty acid profile in terms of linoleic and oleic acids, sesame oil is used in cosmetic formulations as an emollient, antioxidant, and skin care agent.
This article is not a product advertisement. Its purpose is to provide an independent framework regarding the scientific position of sesame oil in the literature.
Botanical source and history
Sesamum indicum L. (Pedaliaceae family), is one of the oldest oilseed plants cultivated by humanity. Its origin is thought to be Africa or India. Records of sesame oil are found in Mesopotamian clay tablets (2000 BCE). Today, the main producer countries are Myanmar, India, Tanzania, China, and Turkey.
In the Ayurvedic tradition, sesame oil is called "Taila" and is a fundamental component of the abhyanga (oil massage) practice. In traditional Chinese medicine, it has also been used in topical applications. In Anatolia, sesame oil has been known for centuries for both culinary and traditional skin care purposes.
Chemical profile
Fatty acid composition
Sesame oil presents a balanced fatty acid profile: oleic acid (omega-9) 35-50%, linoleic acid (omega-6) 35-50%, palmitic acid 7-12%, and stearic acid 3-6%. This balance between oleic and linoleic acids gives sesame oil both emollient and skin barrier support potential.
Sesamin and sesamol: unique lignans
The most important characteristic that distinguishes sesame oil from other plant oils is that it contains unique lignan compounds such as sesamin and sesamolin. Sesamol, a thermal degradation product of sesamolin, exhibits strong antioxidant activity. These lignans are the fundamental answer to the extraordinary oxidative stability of sesame oil—the “why doesn’t sesame oil spoil easily” question. In the research literature, the antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and UV-protective potential of sesamin and sesamol are being examined.
Natural UV filtration
Sesame oil stands out among plant oils for its natural UV filtration capacity. The sesamol component can absorb UV radiation. However, this capacity is not comparable to the SPF values of cosmetic sunscreen products—it should not be used as a standalone sunscreen. Nevertheless, this property is evaluated as an additional benefit in skin care formulations.
Place in scientific literature
Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory research
In a comprehensive review conducted by Hsu and Parthasarathy (2017), the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties of sesame oil lignans (sesamin, sesamolin, sesamol) were evaluated. In particular, the free radical scavenging capacity of sesamol was found to be comparable to that of other natural antioxidants.
Skin barrier and moisturization
In a review published by Lin et al. (2018) in International Journal of Molecular Sciences, the anti-inflammatory and skin barrier repair effects of sesame oil were evaluated together with other plant oils. The linoleic acid content of sesame oil is noteworthy because of its potential to contribute to the skin’s natural ceramide synthesis—linoleic acid is one of the precursors of ceramide synthesis.
Traditional medicine research
The abhyanga (sesame oil massage) practice in the Ayurvedic tradition is also examined in modern research literature. Various studies have observed that sesame oil massage increases skin hydration levels and contributes to relaxation. However, most of these findings are based on studies with small sample sizes and methodological limitations.
Safety profile
Sesame oil is generally considered safe for cosmetic use. CIR reports indicate that Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil is used as a skin care agent (emollient) in various cosmetic products. However, sesame allergy is an important place among food allergens and is covered by mandatory allergen labeling in some countries (including the EU). It is recommended that individuals with a history of sesame allergy be cautious in the topical use of sesame oil.
Sesame and Anatolian culinary tradition
Sesame oil, also known as “tahini oil” in Anatolia, is a widely used oil in the kitchen. There are traditional soaps made with sesame oil in Southeast Anatolia. The main production areas of sesame plants in Turkey are the Mediterranean, Southeast Anatolia, and Aegean regions. Turkey is among the important countries in world sesame production.
Oxidative stability: the role of sesamol
The extraordinary oxidative stability of sesame oil—the answer to the “why doesn’t it spoil easily?” question—lies in its unique lignan components. Sesamol showed activity comparable to BHT (butylated hydroxytoluene) synthetic antioxidants in DPPH free radical scavenging tests. This high stability is valuable in terms of both long shelf life in cosmetic formulations and potential for preventing DOS (dreaded orange spots) in soap making.
Sesame oil in soap making
Saponification value and recipe design
The saponification value (SAP—NaOH) of sesame oil is approximately 0.133—very close to olive oil (0.134). Because its iodine value is high (approximately 103-116), using 100% sesame oil in a recipe produces a soft soap. Generally, it is used at 10-25% and balanced with coconut or palm oil for hardness.
Properties it adds to soap
Sesame oil imparts a moisturizing and softening feel to soap. Its lather structure is creamy and stable—thanks to oleic acid. The sesamin and sesamol content supports the soap’s oxidative stability and extends shelf life. Its slight nutty-sesame aroma can be evaluated as a desirable character in some recipes.
Frequently asked questions
What is sesame oil?
Sesame oil is a plant oil obtained from the seeds of the Sesamum indicum plant, with a history of use exceeding 4000 years. It presents a balanced profile in terms of oleic and linoleic acids.
What distinguishes sesame oil from other oils?
It contains unique lignan compounds such as sesamin and sesamol. These lignans exhibit strong antioxidant activity and are the source of sesame oil’s extraordinary oxidative stability.
What is sesame oil used for in soap?
It adds a moisturizing feel, creamy lather, and oxidative stability to soap. Its SAP value is very close to olive oil and is used in recipes at 10-25%.
Can people with sesame allergy use sesame oil soap?
It is recommended that individuals with a history of sesame allergy be cautious about topical sesame oil products and consult a health professional.
Chailea products containing this ingredient
- Natural Juniper Tar Soap 100 g
- Natural Bitumen Soap 100 g
- Natural Pine Tar Soap 100 g
- Natural Black Seed Soap 100 g
References
1. Hsu, E., & Parthasarathy, S. (2017). Anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects of sesame oil on atherosclerosis: A descriptive literature review. Cureus, 9(7), e1438.
2. Lin, T.-K., Zhong, L., & Santiago, J. L. (2018). Anti-Inflammatory and Skin Barrier Repair Effects of Topical Application of Some Plant Oils. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 19(1), 70. doi:10.3390/ijms19010070
3. Namiki, M. (2007). Nutraceutical functions of sesame: A review. Critical Reviews in Food Science and Nutrition, 47(7), 651-673.