Chaileapedia
ChaileapediaBotanical Extracts & Actives
Botanical Extracts & Actives

Activated Charcoal (Carbon): Cosmetic Use and Scientific Literature

In Brief: Activated charcoal (INCI: Charcoal Powder) is a porous carbon structure activated at high temperatures. Due to its micro-pores, it is a porous material that adsorbs dirt and excess sebum on the surface. In soap making, it is used in purifying formulas, particularly for oily skin.

Activated charcoal (activated charcoal / carbon) is a form of carbon that has been processed at high temperatures to acquire a porous structure. Due to its porous structure, activated charcoal possesses an extremely large surface area and, with its adsorption (surface attachment) property, has been used in various fields for thousands of years. This article examines the position of activated charcoal in scientific literature regarding its cosmetic use, its safety profile, and its role in soap making based on academic sources.

This article is not a product promotion. The purpose is to provide an independent framework on the position of activated charcoal in scientific literature. The information in this article does not contain any treatment claims.

History and traditional use

The history of activated charcoal use by humanity dates back to ancient Egyptian civilization. Greek historian Herodotus (484 BCE – 425 BCE) recorded the first known use of carbon. While ancient Egyptians used carbon for fuel and metal processing, ancient Greeks and Romans benefited from charcoal powder for oral hygiene. In the 400s BCE, settled civilizations in the Indus region began using charcoal powder for water purification (Goodman & Goldstein, 2020).

In modern medicine, activated charcoal is known as an adsorbent used for emergency response in poisoning cases. It entered the cosmetic sector around 2014 and gained popularity, particularly in facial cleansing products.

Physical properties and adsorption mechanism

Activated charcoal is obtained by processing high carbon content materials such as bamboo, coconut shells, or wood at high temperatures (approximately 800-1000°C). This process creates micro-pores in the carbon structure, dramatically increasing its surface area.

Surface area

It is estimated that the surface area of 1 gram of activated charcoal can reach approximately 3000 square meters — equivalent to the surface area of 3 Olympic swimming pools. This enormous surface area is the foundation of activated charcoal's adsorption capacity.

Adsorption vs. absorption

Activated charcoal's working principle is based on adsorption — unlike absorption, not a substance entering inside another substance, but attaching to its surface. Activated charcoal is negatively charged and attracts positively charged compounds (dirt, oil, etc.) to its surface.

Cosmetic use and scientific evaluation

CIR safety assessment

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Council, in its safety assessment published in 2023, determined that activated charcoal is generally safe for use in cosmetic products. According to VCRP (Voluntary Cosmetic Registration Program) data, carbon powder was reported in 231 cosmetic formulations, and activated charcoal in 53 formulations; the majority is used in rinse-off products (CIR, 2023).

Dermatologists' assessment

In a review conducted by Goodman and Goldstein (2020) at the University of Miami and published in the journal Clinics in Dermatology, it was noted that activated charcoal is used in various products in the cosmetic industry, including facial cleansers and soaps. However, the same study emphasized that clinical evidence is still limited and that there is insufficient scientific data on the exfoliating or anti-aging effects of activated charcoal.

EWG safety profile

The Environmental Working Group (EWG) has given activated charcoal a score of 1 (lowest risk) on a 1-10 scale. It has been evaluated to have a very strong safety profile in terms of cancer risk, allergies, reproductive toxicity, and usage restrictions.

Status of clinical evidence

The number of clinical studies on the effects of activated charcoal on skin in scientific literature is still limited. Goodman and Goldstein (2020) reported that in a search conducted on PubMed, only a few studies directly examined the dermatological use of activated charcoal. Existing studies predominantly cover its use in wound dressings for odor control, reduction of uremic pruritus, and wound infection management.

Cosmetic companies' claims about activated charcoal's pore cleansing, acne treatment, and detoxification are not yet supported by sufficient clinical data. For this reason, dermatologists emphasize that while activated charcoal is generally safe, it should not be considered an evidence-based treatment for specific skin conditions.

Safety profile and warnings

Topical safety

The CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) determined in 2023 that activated charcoal is generally safe for cosmetic use. The EWG (Environmental Working Group) gave it a score of 1 (lowest risk) on a 1-10 scale. According to available data, no serious adverse effects of activated charcoal have been reported in topical (external) use. No reactions were observed in dermal sensitization (sensitization) tests.

Frequency of use recommendation

The strong adsorption capacity of activated charcoal can cause excessive extraction of natural oils and moisture from the skin with overuse, leading to dryness and irritation. For this reason, it is recommended that products containing activated charcoal be used 1-2 times per week rather than daily. In dry and sensitive skin types, this frequency may be further reduced.

Oral use warning

Activated charcoal should absolutely not be taken orally without medical supervision. Oral intake can lead to serious side effects such as nausea, vomiting, constipation, and gastrointestinal obstruction. Additionally, it can prevent the absorption of oral medications. For cosmetic use, only topical (external) application is relevant.

Activated charcoal in soap making

Activated charcoal is added to soap recipes as a color agent and textural additive. In cold process soap production, activated charcoal is typically mixed in at the trace stage. It imparts its characteristic dark black color to the soap and a slight textured (exfoliant-like) feel.

In soap recipes, activated charcoal is generally used at a rate of 1-3% of the total oil amount (measured in tsp/tablespoon). Use at higher rates can make the soap's color too dark and may leave residue in the sink after rinsing.

Frequently asked questions

What is activated charcoal?

Activated charcoal is a form of carbon that has been processed at high temperatures to acquire a porous structure. Due to its enormous surface area, it exhibits adsorption (surface attachment) properties.

What does activated charcoal do for skin?

Dermatologists note that activated charcoal is used in cleansing products due to its potential to extract excess oil and dirt from the surface. However, clinical evidence for specific skin conditions is still limited.

Is activated charcoal safe?

The CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) has determined that activated charcoal is generally safe for cosmetic use. The EWG gave it a rating of 1/10 (lowest risk).

Why is activated charcoal used in soap?

In soap making, activated charcoal is added to recipes as a color agent and textural additive. It imparts its characteristic dark color to the soap and a slight textured cleansing feel.

Chailea products containing this ingredient

References

1. Goodman, G. J., & Goldstein, J. A. (2020). Charcoal: An ancient material with a new face. Clinics in Dermatology, 38(3), 290-293. doi:10.1016/j.clindermatol.2019.07.015

2. CIR Expert Panel (2023). Safety Assessment of Charcoal Ingredients as Used in Cosmetics. Cosmetic Ingredient Review.

3. Sajjad, M., et al. (2021). Cosmetic uses of activated charcoal. International Journal of Community Medicine and Public Health.

4. Baumann, L. (2022). Baumann's Cosmetic Dermatology, Ed 3. McGraw Hill.


Read the original in Turkish on chailea.com →

Oğuz Kağan Dereci

MSc Chemist · Chailea / ChaiNovi Sanayi Ticaret Ltd. Şti.

Chaileapedia grows out of the ingredient research behind Chailea's cold-process soaps in Rize, on Türkiye's Black Sea coast. Each entry is documented by INCI name, with cited sources, and without overstatement.

Chaileapedia is an educational reference about cosmetic ingredients and the science of soapmaking. It is not intended to diagnose, treat, cure or prevent any disease.