pediaAloe vera, the transparent gel-like botanical extract obtained from the thick, fleshy leaves of the plant Aloe barbadensis Mill. (family Asphodelaceae), is one of the oldest and most studied cosmetic ingredients in human history. Referenced in the Ebers Papyrus dating to approximately 1550 BCE, aloe vera gel contains over 200 bioactive compounds and has been extensively researched in cosmetic literature, particularly in the context of moisturization and skin care. This monograph addresses aloe vera as a cosmetic ingredient; it makes no therapeutic or healing claims.
This text is not a product advertisement. This is a cosmetic ingredient monograph; it is not product or medical advice.
Botanical source and history
Aloe barbadensis Mill. (synonym: Aloe vera (L.) Burm.f.) is a succulent plant native to Africa. Its thick, lance-shaped leaves with spiny margins are green externally and filled with gel internally. Its natural habitat is North and East Africa; today it is widely cultivated in tropical and subtropical regions.
The cosmetic use of aloe vera dates back at least 4,000 years. It appears in the Ebers Papyrus (1550 BCE) in records related to skin care. Aloe vera is reputed to have been used in Cleopatra's beauty rituals; in ancient Greece, Dioscorides described it in detail. It has been used for centuries in Ayurveda and traditional Chinese medicine.
Leaf structure and gel extraction
The aloe vera leaf consists of three layers: the outer green rind (protective layer), the middle latex layer (yellowish, bitter — contains aloin/barbaloin), and the inner gel (transparent, parenchymal tissue). The inner gel is the portion used for cosmetic purposes. The latex layer contains laxative-active compounds (anthraquinones), so in quality aloe vera products, the latex fraction is separated.
Chemical profile
General composition
Aloe vera gel consists of 99-99.5% water and 0.5-1% solids. This small solid fraction contains over 200 bioactive compounds — polysaccharides, glycoproteins, amino acids (18 different amino acids, 7 of which are essential), vitamins, minerals, enzymes, organic acids, phenolic compounds, and saponins.
Acemannan: key polysaccharide
The most studied component of aloe vera gel is acemannan (acetylated mannan). This polysaccharide, composed of glucose and mannose units, is associated with the gel's film-forming and moisture-retaining properties. Acemannan content is used as a quality indicator for aloe vera products.
Vitamins and minerals
Aloe vera gel contains vitamin A (β-carotene), vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin E (α-tocopherol), vitamin B12 (rare among plant sources), folic acid, and B-complex vitamins. Mineral content includes calcium, magnesium, zinc, potassium, sodium, iron, and copper. This vitamin-mineral profile contributes to the antioxidant capacity of aloe vera.
Enzymes
Aloe vera gel contains enzymes including amylase, lipase, alkaline phosphatase, catalase, peroxidase, and bradykinase. Catalase and peroxidase are enzymes that contribute to the neutralization of free radicals.
Position in scientific literature
Moisturization and skin hydration
In a clinical study by Dal'Belo and colleagues published in Skin Research and Technology (2006), cosmetic formulations containing aloe vera at various concentrations were shown to increase skin hydration levels. Aloe vera's humectant property is associated with its polysaccharide and mucopolysaccharide content; these compounds form a thin film on the skin surface, reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL). This is aloe vera's primary function in cosmetic formulations.
Other literature and scope note
Aloe vera has an extensive medical/pharmaceutical literature beyond moisturization (such as the Surjushe et al. 2008 review). The therapeutic uses in this literature — such as wound/burn care and dermatological applications — fall within the context of pharmaceutical products and are outside the scope of this cosmetic ingredient monograph.
CIR safety assessment
The CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) panel has assessed Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice and its derivatives as safe for use in cosmetic products. Thousands of cosmetic products containing aloe vera have been reported, making aloe vera one of the most common botanical cosmetic ingredients.
Safety profile
Aloe vera gel (inner gel fraction) is generally safe for topical cosmetic use. Rare cases of contact dermatitis have been reported. The latex fraction (yellow layer containing aloin/barbaloin) carries irritant potential and is separated in quality cosmetic products. While aloe vera allergy is rare, cross-reactivity is theoretically possible in individuals with allergies to the Liliaceae/Asphodelaceae families.
Aloe vera in soap making
Methods of use
Aloe vera can be used in soap making in three different ways: gel form (fresh aloe vera gel is used in place of water in the alkaline solution — the most common method), powder form (aloe vera powder is mixed with water and added at trace stage), and juice form (ready-made aloe vera juice is used in place of water).
Technical details
When gel form is used, NaOH is added directly to the aloe vera gel or to a water-gel mixture. The exothermic reaction of NaOH can caramelize the sugars in the gel — for this reason, the mixture is recommended to be made at cool temperatures (frozen gel cubes method — similar to the goat milk method). The alkaline environment breaks down some of aloe vera's components; how much is preserved after saponification remains a matter of debate.
Properties imparted to soap
Aloe vera imparts a moisturizing feel, slight transparency (when gel is used, the soap may be more transparent), soft texture, and creamy lather to soap. An orange-amber color can develop during the NaOH reaction. Fragrance contribution is minimal — its own scent is very faint.
Frequently asked questions
What is aloe vera?
Aloe vera is a transparent gel-like botanical extract obtained from the thick leaves of the Aloe barbadensis plant. It contains over 200 bioactive compounds and is one of the most common botanical cosmetic ingredients in the cosmetics industry.
What does aloe vera do in soap?
It imparts a moisturizing feel, slight transparency, soft texture, and creamy lather to soap. Gel form is used in place of water in the alkaline solution, or powder form is added at trace stage.
Is aloe vera safe?
The CIR panel has assessed aloe vera gel as safe for cosmetic use. It is used in thousands of cosmetic products. Rare allergic reactions are possible.
Chailea products containing this ingredient
- Natural Activated Charcoal Soap 100 g
References
- Dal'Belo SE, Gaspar LR, Maia Campos PMBG. Moisturizing effect of cosmetic formulations containing Aloe vera extract. Skin Research and Technology, 2006; 12(4):241-246. PMID: 17026654. PubMed.
- Surjushe A, Vasani R, Saple DG. Aloe vera: a short review. Indian Journal of Dermatology, 2008; 53(4):163-166. PMID: 19882025. PubMed. (Medical literature; medical use is outside the scope of this cosmetic monograph.)
- CIR — Safety Assessment of Aloe Barbadensis-derived ingredients as used in cosmetics. Cosmetic Ingredient Review.